Monday, November 30, 2009






November 30


Yesterday was unreal. Caught a cab up to SUNGO (Samoa Umbrella for Non-governmental Groups, if I haven't explained this yet). Sat under the big tree for an hour and a bit for our ride to meet the Japanese people at the harbour. Everyone in our party finally arrives and we catch a cab to...you guessed it - right across the street from my hotel. Can't win 'em all. We pull into the parking lot and there's a boat the size of the Love Boat, with Peace Boat written on the side of it in massive letters. The Japanese people join us and we all drive together to a small village to go to church. The service is beautiful, followed by a traditional ava ceremony in the big fale (traditional Samoan dwelling with no walls - roof is supported by pillars or wooden poles.) behind the church. After that, there's a massive pig out. The best was the coconut marinated octopus. The villagers were extremely welcoming. When it comes time to go, instead of heading out with the folks I arrived with, they put me on the Japanese tourist bus! So, we're winding our way through the hills to get to the south side to see some of the tsunami damage.


At this point, some of you might be wondering why, after five days here, I have not yet been to the disaster area. By this time, I could have simply caught a taxi (it's only an hour or so from Apia) and begun shooting over there. The reason is this: I am respecting protocol and am waiting to receive an invitation and confirmation that I am welcome. It's one thing to go as a tourist...and quite another to show up with a video camera. It's also a matter of building trust with my SUNGO hosts. We've never met before and since they are key to a successful introduction, I am patiently awaiting my moment. It's a pretty traumatic thing to have happened and I think it's a lot to ask for me to have the privilege of working with affected communities. Even at the best of times, with honourable intentions, things can go off the rails. Two days ago I was shooting at the SUNGO offices and the volunteers strongly urged me to interview two women who showed up with a young baby - Timon, I think his name was. The massive outpour of aid, from all around the world, has provided a surplus of some items...clothing in particular. The communities affected by the tsunami have had clothing distributed to them and are no longer in need of clothing. The people at SUNGO have the task of distributing the surplus clothing to needy families in poor villages in areas unaffected by the tsunami. The people in need of clothing have to travel to SUNGO in Apia to present a letter from their chief explaining that village's need for clothing. After, transportation is arranged for the goods to the village. The two women accompanying Timon were there for this reason. One of the volunteers urges me to interview them. As I was putting the wireless mics on them the volunteer began telling me their story. The baby is an orphan. His mother was killed in a terrible bus crash at Solosolo shortly after the tsunami. As he told me this, my heart sank. I knew the story, having read the Samoa Observer regularly at home. Eight or nine people died. The driver was supposedly drunk...and it wasn't his first accident of this nature. The women were the mother and cousin of Timon's mother. They were picking up toys and clothing for Timon. As I held the baby, he turned his head to my breast and started trying to feed. The grandmother explained that the baby still does this regularly. The women sat silently. I felt horrible, sitting in front of them, with the camera. It was clear that they weren't ready to talk, but because of everyone's good intentions, they were not free to simply say, "no, thank-you." I turned the camera off and retrieved the mics. I wished them well and asked them to forgive the misunderstanding. The cousin's English was good and I'm sure she understood - I hope she explains to the grandmother. Good intentions don't always translate. I think it's best to try minimize the misunderstandings and do my utmost to respect the people here. I know that this is a challenge, but it's out of respect that I'm not rushing into the affected area.


The Japanese, who are mostly elderly, are pretty tired it seems, so it takes a while to get the conversation going. They are curious about me and so on the long and windy bus ride we have time to go through many attempts to communicate. Mostly it's smiles and laughter. I'm at a loss for the relevance of these people to the SUNGO cause, but I roll with it - the boat they came on is called Peace Boat, after all. By the time we get back to Apia a few hours later, I've exchanged cards with some of the very nice Japanese elderly folks...still wondering what's really going on.


We get back to the SUNGO office and everyone files into the board room for a meeting. The Japanese leader (a young guy) speaks through a translator and communicates the purpose of the visit. The elderly Japanese people are ALL survivors of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. They are traveling on the peace boat for a few months to something like 20 countries to give testamonials and advocate for the end of nuclear armament on Earth. After speaking at length about their experiences we closed out the meeting with traditional Samoan exchanges of gifts and songs. The Japanese sang a song of peace and gave out origami cranes. I got a paper crane lei. Humbling.


I head back to my room and offload the footage. There's a glitch and I have to redo it - for some reason the computer and the camera aren't talking properly. Par for the course -- no big deal. Only thing lost is time...by the time it's done I'm seeing cross-eyed. The gratification of seeing the footage will have to wait until morning.


This is the song the Japanese people sang.


Paper Crane


Wanting to feel glad to be alive

I walked from the city of Hiroshima,

turning sadness into words, turning sadness into anger,

I walked this far with my injured body,

There is a voice I can hear even if I cover my ears,

There is a love which flows out even if I close my heart,

Spread your wings paper crane, from you to the world


Wanting to find a reason to be glad to be alive,

I walked from the city of Nagasaki,

Sharing the pain in my heart through my song,

I walked here from beneath the burnt-out ruins

There is a voice I can hear even if I cover my ears,

There is a love which flows out even if I close my heart,

Spread your wings paper crane, from me to you

Spread your wings paper crane, from you to the world.

Saturday, November 28, 2009


Interviewing the SUNGO President

A baby I met

Pictures

November 27


6:10 am. Sitting in the foyer of the guest house. It's a beautiful place. Big long building with high ceilings and skylights in a main corridor (common area) with a kitchen at the back, office at the front and covered common areas out front. It's across from the marina which is adjacent to the port, so it's industrial, but only by island standards. There's a seawall across the street. It's a five minute walk to downtown. The staff are very friendly. The only real downside is that there's no air con. My room is stifling. I had a look at some other places yesterday and they are more expensive, smaller rooms and further from town. I am spending too much energy on this I need to decide today and truly settle in. Booking the first three nights from Toronto was a great idea. Being able to base myself here, without moving again will be a bonus. The addition of a desk top fan will perfect my room. Still waking up early. Little mini-bugs are crawling all over the laptop - might be the light from the screen that attracts them. Who knows. There's a variety of bugs in my room that I don't know. One of them likes to bite me when I'm sleeping - but there's no visible bumps and other than a minor itch it's not a big deal...so I think I'm going to live with it.

The coincidences are continuing. I met with Mats yesterday. Plans are continuing to flesh out. Looks like we will travel together to the south coast next wednesday. Mats needs time to communicate with potential subjects and receive confirmation that we are welcome. Mats and I talked for a long time and discussed our objectives. He is working with the Samoan Tourist Authority on some web projects. I mentioned my idea to work with children and song and dance. Mats is introducing me to Sia's cousin who is taking kids from this side of the island over to the South to spread some cheer. After telling Mats about my desire to create a lasting contribution to the people of Samoa, through mentorship while I'm here, he responded that that's what HE wants for himself. Turns out I will mentor Mats. He's been attempting to learn about video and has made progress, but a mentorship is very welcome to him. How amazing is that? Mats and his family are largely responsible for our prior positive experiences in Samoa. We stayed with his family and extended family in 2000 and 2003. Mats took us to Lalomanu. He took us to Sinalei resort. Those places are the worst hit. Giving directly back to Mats means a lot to me.

Last night I went over to the Gourmet restaurant two doors over to see about using the wireless internet. It works fine. I can prepay for bulk time and log in and out to compose and reply, which is the lesser of two evils. Alternatively I can use the house computer at the guest house, but it's crowded and expensive. Much better to go next door. The food's reasonable also. After confirming that it all works fine and a nice chicken dinner I recognized a woman at the next table from a previous visit...it's Dawn, who works at the University, who was Lynda's main contact on our last visit. I sat with her for a while and had a lovely conversation. The woman sitting with Dawn is the head of Housing Samoa. I shared cards and requested an interview. Hopefully she follows up with me.

Had my first visit to SUNGO yesterday. As soon as I pulled into the driveway I knew I wanted to shoot for them. It's a cabin type building in a complex filled with similar type structures, at or near the University. Think rustic summer camp office. There were a bunch of people sitting on a tarp in front of two cargo shipping containers hand sorting clothing and small household utensils. Roina's office is large with a big table. She offers her lunch to me - she's too busy to eat...but I had just had lunch. We discuss the leads and connections I've made. SUNGO is the last part of our conversation. She comes out and asks if I will shoot for them. I almost blush at having not been more explicit. My response pleases Roina - I promise to return tomorrow (today) and begin shooting immediately. Dealing with the logistics of accommodation have taken up far too much of my time. I haven't shot a single frame of video (except the underwater tests with the stills camera) since arriving. My time here is going to go fast and I just want to get shooting. This morning that is going to happen.

Breakfast is included in the rate here. It's Samoan breakfast. Toast with butter, coffee, papaya and bananas. I like to make a papaya banana sandwich.

November 26


Up at 6am. Slept really well. Rained all night, but one cup of coffee and I'm drenched in sweat again. Mini panic - temporarily can't locate my tools. Although I was certain I had packed them, there's no substitution for holding them in your hand. Step one. Got the head on my tripod. Managed to not blow anything up last night, which is good. Although I am carefully reading all specs on all gear, there's just no substitution for hindsight, as I learned on the Arctic Sunrise (sorry Odin).

I need to choose where I'm going to be based for the rest of the trip. I'm kind of in limbo. I'm hoping that speaking to Mats today will help resolve this for me. Perhaps he can help guide my decision on this.

November 24/25

9PM, LA time. Sitting in the LAX departure lounge. It's mostly Polynesians - I think this flight goes to Tonga after Samoa. I'm tired, but that's partly because it's midnight Toronto time - and partly because I worked like a donkey last week to get this trip together.

Today was challenging. The feeling is similar to training for a marathon. Some things went off the rails. I've been cutting a demo, for Karen to pitch to Bravo while I'm in Samoa. We talked two days ago and she had some very good ideas for how to make it better. People have been extremely supportive of this project, including equipment owners as far away as Quebec and Connecticut. Both sent loaner gear - both had problems. The Connecticut gear was sent overnight - but it went to the sender's address. The Ottawa gear arrived damaged, but I didn't find out until last night. This morning had me shopping to replace the Connecticut gear (defeating the purpose of borrowing it) but I didn't have the luxury of time to wait. While at the store, a waterproof splash bag caught my eye. Had to have it. Would be a BIG mistake to go on this trip without proper protection in heavy rain - or the ability to shoot underwater. What was I thinking? The airport cab was booked for 12:40 - I worked right up to the last minute. The only thing left undone on my list was to sign up for Skype. Completed the re-edit of the demo and made copies for Karen. Got all my gear packed...the extra P2 card that I bought ($875) can now be returned, since the courier showed up to make good on the Connecticut delivery. Whew. I guess things happen for a reason - I wouldn't have been at the store to buy the splash bag if it hadn't been for the mix up.

I want to sleep on this flight. I'm hoping to have a productive day tomorrow. Flight is scheduled to arrive at 5:40 am.

It's been a huge week. I booked the flight last tuesday, after finding the best connections and second best price. Only compromise was the short lead up.

Boarding at LA - The dreaded departure lounge call to bring overweight cabin luggage up. Talked my way through it. Got lucky. Air New Zealand is a class act. I feel a twinge of guilt as they suggest I pre-board. They got my purpose for being there, but made sure I understood that I was putting my needs ahead of everyone else - and the flight was full. My only reason for insisting so strongly was the fragility of everything I was carrying on my person. I wouldn't have insisted ,otherwise.

Later on I stretch my legs and talk for a bit with the cabin crew. They were at Lalomanu the day before the tsunami. I could tell that they were still spooked from such a close call.

5am - Arriving at Apia 40 minutes early, well fed and feeling rested. The roll-up travel pillow is is best $12 I think I've ever spent. Usually I can't sleep on planes. The smell of heavy vegetation wafting is a joyous awakening to my nose. The welcome committee consists of a four piece Polynesian band - I love this custom. Speaking of Customs - since I have equipment with me, they wanted to have a look. Most interesting question was what religion I am. It's morning rush hour. Smoke from cooking fires fills the air. Reminds me of Asia. The bus driver drops off the only other passenger 2/3 of the way to my destination, but then excuses himself (was late to take his kids to school), so he flags down a taxi, pays the fare and I complete the trip in a cab. I find this more amusing than anything. Actually I should take it as a complement - he treated me similar to a local - and knocked off more than half the official fare.

The guest house is modest. After a quick breakfast I walk into town. I have no phone - and don't know how to make a local call yet. Turns out that just about everybody is on a cell phone and I can't make a local call anywhere without a local calling card. Would have been nice to have a fixer with me, but no budget for that. It's OK for now - the only casualty is time and I am a long way from slowing to local pace. My mission is to find a 230V surge protector and some more 110-230V adaptors plus a UPS. Find a useful UPS but the cheapest one is over $250 Canadian - beyond my reach. I should have carried the extra weight and brought my 110 UPS, but it's all hindsight. I meet two Australians on a street corner who let me use their phone. I need to reach my local contacts asap. My time in Samoa is going to go very quickly and I need to start shooting as soon as possible.

Back to the guest house - It's been a long day, I'm sweaty and a bit haggard, but three minutes up the road is one of the best snorkeling spots on the island. I grab my mask and fins and off to Palolo deep. This is not simply recreation...I take the underwater stills camera and am now reacquainting myself with the ocean. I have a feeling that there is some compelling underwater footage to shoot on the south coast - but first I must get used to being in the water again. Small steps in the right direction and I'll get there. The timing is perfect I arrive at high tide, which is really the only time to swim here. Palolo deep Marine reserve is a big underwater crater surrounded by very shallow reef, so if you don't go at high tide you may as well walk (in other words, not go) to the crater which is about 300 feet from shore.

My two previous visits were incredible cultural experiences - and were largely as good as they were because of the hospitality of my friend Mats and his family. I want to connect with him to network re: accommodation - but I also feel that he will be a good connection in general. I don't know where I'm going to be based yet and it's a little disconcerting because I can't really unpack or settle until this is resolved. After playing phone tag with Mats - we finally get to speak.

Turns out that Mats is working on a website project with the Samoan Tourist Authority. Video is a high priority for this project. Serendipity.

Back at the ranch, I manage to offload the days' footage - all from the stills camera, even though I've carried the HVX with me all day. Just scoping things out at the moment. Don't want to get greedy and make mistakes - although the sunset across the harbour is gorgeous. Eye candy can wait.

I take a deep breath, stand back and plug one of my stills batteries in to the wall...it's 110-240V, but it still makes me nervous. Works fine. The computer also. I mean, the appliances which say 110-240 should be fine - it's just that ever so small chance that things could go wrong...

Tired - going to the store to fill up on water, then I think I'll tuck in.

I bypass the Gourmet restaurant in favor of a small store next door. Maybe water will be cheaper there. The cool breeze is welcome. My room is stifling, despite the ceiling fan, which is situated closer to the bed - this place is really nice, as far as backpacker accommodation - the staff a super friendly and there's a kitchen. A small desktop fan and another work table would be the additions I need if I were to stay here - both of which I'm sure are easily achieved...but it's not my first choice. I know I'll get used to the heat - but I think air conditioning is going to be necessary if I'm to be truly productive here. The hotel is just not well ventilated. I knew to expect this - and it would have been fine if backpacking - but I'm not.

Paying tourist price for the water is a small tradeoff for the information I garner on the wall - a poster for the annual firedancing competition - June 4-6 this year. This totally rocks, since Independence day is June 1. This could work out really well. More on this later.

Met a police officer on the seawall. Had a good chat. He was on the cross island ferry (the small one) during the tsunami. The captain kept them out between the islands for six hours before telling them what was really going on.

He's a member of the big Catholic church in town. I asked if he thought it would be OK to shoot the service on Sunday and he thought it would be great. This will be something to write home about. I will look to meet the priest ahead to time.

He was very grateful that I have come so far to help. I'm sorry my friends - I took that one in for myself, forgetting to mention all the support I received. A total tropical downpour starts. I'm invited in to his truck for a ride back to the hotel. He tells me that he's going to turn at the clock tower - a good long distance, but it gives us time to talk further. He tells me that tourists should respect local customs - no swimming or skimpy bathing suits on Sundays. This is important to him - and to Samoans. As I get out of his (air conditioned) truck he leaves me with the word "sa". I don't know what it means yet.

I've got enough water to last me the night. I have a quick shower to cool off once more and jump into bed feeling accomplished for staying up all day. Hopefully the jet lag won't hit too hard in the days to come.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Update 11/25/09

After a few setbacks and last minute changes, equipment failures and packing, James is presently on his way to Samoa. Please check back for updates soon.

Thursday, November 19, 2009

About Samoa

Samoa is a postcard of natural beauty consisting of ten islands, each offering very distinct and different environments to explore.
From the rainforest covered rugged volcanic mountain peaks of the two main islands to the vast valleys leading down to a coastline ringed with a necklace of white sandy beaches.
Within these lush green fertile valleys, grow banyan trees towering above the rainforest canopy which is full of tropical blooms and numerous varieties of vegetation.
Cascading waterfalls dropping into rivers that cut jagged lines through the valley floor as they make there way to the ocean.
The coastline is a wonder in itself, with sparkling white sand beaches, in some places stretching for miles, and here and there are walls of sheer cliffs that drop straight into the Pacific.
And beyond the beaches out into the blue lagoons are scattered the rest of the islands that make up the Samoa archipelago, some inhabited, others with only natures wildlife, protected by the fringing coral reef that keep the powerful force of the Pacific Ocean at bay.
And amongst all this natural beauty and picturesque valleys and coastline you will find nu’u or villages with their churches, meeting houses and open fale or homes encircling the malae or village green.
Home to people proud of their strong Fa’a Samoa - cultural heritage, that lives along side these natural wonders.

For it’s the people, culture and nature that give life to these islands.
As a result of the Earthquake and Tsunami that hit the Samoa Islands on Tuesday 29th September 2009, coastal areas of Samoa sustained damages with extensive destruction mainly to the South-South Eastern coast of Upolu Island. Damages were to resorts, family homes and community buildings, roads, power lines and water supply located along the coastline of the affected areas.

Now the people of Samoa are left to rebuild their lives and their homes.

For more on Samoa CLICK HERE