November 24/25

9PM, LA time. Sitting in the LAX departure lounge. It's mostly Polynesians - I think this flight goes to Tonga after Samoa. I'm tired, but that's partly because it's midnight Toronto time - and partly because I worked like a donkey last week to get this trip together.

Today was challenging. The feeling is similar to training for a marathon. Some things went off the rails. I've been cutting a demo, for Karen to pitch to Bravo while I'm in Samoa. We talked two days ago and she had some very good ideas for how to make it better. People have been extremely supportive of this project, including equipment owners as far away as Quebec and Connecticut. Both sent loaner gear - both had problems. The Connecticut gear was sent overnight - but it went to the sender's address. The Ottawa gear arrived damaged, but I didn't find out until last night. This morning had me shopping to replace the Connecticut gear (defeating the purpose of borrowing it) but I didn't have the luxury of time to wait. While at the store, a waterproof splash bag caught my eye. Had to have it. Would be a BIG mistake to go on this trip without proper protection in heavy rain - or the ability to shoot underwater. What was I thinking? The airport cab was booked for 12:40 - I worked right up to the last minute. The only thing left undone on my list was to sign up for Skype. Completed the re-edit of the demo and made copies for Karen. Got all my gear packed...the extra P2 card that I bought ($875) can now be returned, since the courier showed up to make good on the Connecticut delivery. Whew. I guess things happen for a reason - I wouldn't have been at the store to buy the splash bag if it hadn't been for the mix up.

I want to sleep on this flight. I'm hoping to have a productive day tomorrow. Flight is scheduled to arrive at 5:40 am.

It's been a huge week. I booked the flight last tuesday, after finding the best connections and second best price. Only compromise was the short lead up.

Boarding at LA - The dreaded departure lounge call to bring overweight cabin luggage up. Talked my way through it. Got lucky. Air New Zealand is a class act. I feel a twinge of guilt as they suggest I pre-board. They got my purpose for being there, but made sure I understood that I was putting my needs ahead of everyone else - and the flight was full. My only reason for insisting so strongly was the fragility of everything I was carrying on my person. I wouldn't have insisted ,otherwise.

Later on I stretch my legs and talk for a bit with the cabin crew. They were at Lalomanu the day before the tsunami. I could tell that they were still spooked from such a close call.

5am - Arriving at Apia 40 minutes early, well fed and feeling rested. The roll-up travel pillow is is best $12 I think I've ever spent. Usually I can't sleep on planes. The smell of heavy vegetation wafting is a joyous awakening to my nose. The welcome committee consists of a four piece Polynesian band - I love this custom. Speaking of Customs - since I have equipment with me, they wanted to have a look. Most interesting question was what religion I am. It's morning rush hour. Smoke from cooking fires fills the air. Reminds me of Asia. The bus driver drops off the only other passenger 2/3 of the way to my destination, but then excuses himself (was late to take his kids to school), so he flags down a taxi, pays the fare and I complete the trip in a cab. I find this more amusing than anything. Actually I should take it as a complement - he treated me similar to a local - and knocked off more than half the official fare.

The guest house is modest. After a quick breakfast I walk into town. I have no phone - and don't know how to make a local call yet. Turns out that just about everybody is on a cell phone and I can't make a local call anywhere without a local calling card. Would have been nice to have a fixer with me, but no budget for that. It's OK for now - the only casualty is time and I am a long way from slowing to local pace. My mission is to find a 230V surge protector and some more 110-230V adaptors plus a UPS. Find a useful UPS but the cheapest one is over $250 Canadian - beyond my reach. I should have carried the extra weight and brought my 110 UPS, but it's all hindsight. I meet two Australians on a street corner who let me use their phone. I need to reach my local contacts asap. My time in Samoa is going to go very quickly and I need to start shooting as soon as possible.

Back to the guest house - It's been a long day, I'm sweaty and a bit haggard, but three minutes up the road is one of the best snorkeling spots on the island. I grab my mask and fins and off to Palolo deep. This is not simply recreation...I take the underwater stills camera and am now reacquainting myself with the ocean. I have a feeling that there is some compelling underwater footage to shoot on the south coast - but first I must get used to being in the water again. Small steps in the right direction and I'll get there. The timing is perfect I arrive at high tide, which is really the only time to swim here. Palolo deep Marine reserve is a big underwater crater surrounded by very shallow reef, so if you don't go at high tide you may as well walk (in other words, not go) to the crater which is about 300 feet from shore.

My two previous visits were incredible cultural experiences - and were largely as good as they were because of the hospitality of my friend Mats and his family. I want to connect with him to network re: accommodation - but I also feel that he will be a good connection in general. I don't know where I'm going to be based yet and it's a little disconcerting because I can't really unpack or settle until this is resolved. After playing phone tag with Mats - we finally get to speak.

Turns out that Mats is working on a website project with the Samoan Tourist Authority. Video is a high priority for this project. Serendipity.

Back at the ranch, I manage to offload the days' footage - all from the stills camera, even though I've carried the HVX with me all day. Just scoping things out at the moment. Don't want to get greedy and make mistakes - although the sunset across the harbour is gorgeous. Eye candy can wait.

I take a deep breath, stand back and plug one of my stills batteries in to the wall...it's 110-240V, but it still makes me nervous. Works fine. The computer also. I mean, the appliances which say 110-240 should be fine - it's just that ever so small chance that things could go wrong...

Tired - going to the store to fill up on water, then I think I'll tuck in.

I bypass the Gourmet restaurant in favor of a small store next door. Maybe water will be cheaper there. The cool breeze is welcome. My room is stifling, despite the ceiling fan, which is situated closer to the bed - this place is really nice, as far as backpacker accommodation - the staff a super friendly and there's a kitchen. A small desktop fan and another work table would be the additions I need if I were to stay here - both of which I'm sure are easily achieved...but it's not my first choice. I know I'll get used to the heat - but I think air conditioning is going to be necessary if I'm to be truly productive here. The hotel is just not well ventilated. I knew to expect this - and it would have been fine if backpacking - but I'm not.

Paying tourist price for the water is a small tradeoff for the information I garner on the wall - a poster for the annual firedancing competition - June 4-6 this year. This totally rocks, since Independence day is June 1. This could work out really well. More on this later.

Met a police officer on the seawall. Had a good chat. He was on the cross island ferry (the small one) during the tsunami. The captain kept them out between the islands for six hours before telling them what was really going on.

He's a member of the big Catholic church in town. I asked if he thought it would be OK to shoot the service on Sunday and he thought it would be great. This will be something to write home about. I will look to meet the priest ahead to time.

He was very grateful that I have come so far to help. I'm sorry my friends - I took that one in for myself, forgetting to mention all the support I received. A total tropical downpour starts. I'm invited in to his truck for a ride back to the hotel. He tells me that he's going to turn at the clock tower - a good long distance, but it gives us time to talk further. He tells me that tourists should respect local customs - no swimming or skimpy bathing suits on Sundays. This is important to him - and to Samoans. As I get out of his (air conditioned) truck he leaves me with the word "sa". I don't know what it means yet.

I've got enough water to last me the night. I have a quick shower to cool off once more and jump into bed feeling accomplished for staying up all day. Hopefully the jet lag won't hit too hard in the days to come.